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If you've ever picked up a skein of yarn and spotted the words "woollen-spun" or "worsted-spun," you might have wondered what they actually mean. These terms don’t refer to yarn weight or thickness (despite the confusing overlap with terms like "worsted weight") - they describe two distinct systems of preparing and spinning fibre. And that difference affects everything from how the yarn feels to how it behaves on your needles.
In this post, we’ll take you through what makes these two spinning methods so different, step by step - from scoured fleece to single-ply yarn.
Woollen-spun yarns are made from shorter fibres that are carded and left jumbled before spinning. The result is an airy, lofty yarn full of tiny air pockets - warm, soft, and a little fuzzy.
Worsted-spun yarns start with longer fibres that are aligned through gilling and combing before spinning. The result is a smoother, denser yarn that drapes well and shows off stitch definition.
| Feature | Woollen | Worsted |
| Fibre Length | Short to medium | Medium to long |
| Fibre Alignment | Jumbled, disordered | Aligned, parallel |
| Preparation | Carded only | Carded, gilled, combed |
| Drafting Style | Low draft | High draft |
| Yarn Structure | Lofty, fuzzy | Smooth, lustrous |
| Fabric Feel | Light, matte | Dense, slight sheen |
| Stitch Appearance | Softly blended, haloed
| Sharp, defined, crisp |
Let’s walk through how each spinning system transforms fleece into yarn, focusing on the key differences in preparation and spinning. We'll also cover the lesser-known in-between approaches: semi-woollen and semi-worsted.
Woollen spinning starts with scoured fleece - wool that’s been cleaned of lanolin, dust, and debris. This fleece is sent through a carding machine, which opens up the locks, blends the fibres, and creates a soft, airy web. This web is then condensed into loose ropes called slubbings, slivers, or rovings, depending on regional or mill terminology.
Critically, the fibres are left in a jumbled, disorganised state. There’s no attempt to align them or remove shorter pieces. The fibre retains its natural character - crimpy, lofty, and varied in length.
Spinning is done using a low draft technique, where the slubbing is usually only made around 1.3 times thinner. This allows the fibres to twist together in their disordered form, creating a yarn that traps air and blooms when washed. The finished yarn is lofty, matte, and insulating - often lighter than it looks.
Worsted spinning also begins with scoured fleece, which is initially carded to open up and partially align the fibres. The carded fibre is then passed through gill boxes - machines that further align and blend the fibres using rows of fine pins and rollers.
Next comes combing - a key difference. Combing removes the shorter fibres and any remaining neps (tangled bits), leaving only long, parallel fibres. This creates a continuous, smooth sliver where everything points the same way.
When spinning, a different drafting technique is used. Due to the aligned nature of the fibre, a much high draft can be considered - sometimes as much as 200 times thinner. Twist is only added after the fibre is pulled to the desired thickness. This results in a dense, smooth yarn with excellent durability and stitch clarity.
The worsted process is more intensive and wasteful - since short fibres are removed - but it produces a yarn with consistent structure and high strength. In our mill this noil (the short fibre removed during combing) is packaged up and sold as stuffing for toys and cushions, to keep our zero waste promise.
Semi-worsted spinning follows the same process as worsted - carding, gilling, and short-draw spinning - but skips the combing step. This means short fibres remain in the sliver, making the final yarn slightly more variable in length and loft.
The result is a yarn that bridges woollen and worsted characteristics: it’s smoother and more structured than woollen-spun, but has a little more bounce, softness, and halo than a fully worsted yarn.
Many commercial yarns marketed as “worsted” are, in fact, semi-worsted - particularly if combing is skipped for cost or fibre retention reasons.
Semi-woollen is much more unusual. It typically involves starting with combed top - that is, fibre that’s already been processed to remove short pieces - and then feeding it into a woollen carder. This reintroduces randomness to the fibre layout without the inclusion of short fibres.
The result is a lofty, jumbled yarn made only from long fibres - a sort of controlled chaos. This hybrid method can produce a yarn that’s strong and low-pilling, but still airy and warm. It’s rarely used in large-scale production but offers interesting results when fibre strength is essential and softness is still desired.
Understanding whether a yarn is woollen or worsted-spun helps you choose the right yarn for your project.
No system is better - they’re simply different tools for different tasks. And the best yarns are spun to suit the fibre, not force it into one system or the other.
“Worsted” means worsted weight, right?
Not here. “Worsted weight” refers to yarn thickness; “worsted-spun” refers to the spinning method. You can have a woollen-spun worsted weight yarn, and a worsted-spun laceweight.
Woollen yarns are itchy.
Not necessarily. Softness comes from the fibre itself (breed, staple, micron count), not the spinning method.
Worsted is always better quality.
Nope. It depends on the fibre, the spinner, and the intended use. Some fibres shine in a woollen prep; others need the alignment of worsted to perform well.
Can I knit socks with woollen-spun yarn?
Possibly, but look for tight twist and strong fibre. Worsted-spun yarns tend to be more abrasion-resistant.
Can the same fleece be spun both ways?
Yes, with adjustments in prep. A long-staple fleece could be carded for woollen spinning or combed for worsted.
Does worsted always have more twist?
Not always. Twist amount varies by mill and purpose - some woollen yarns can be tightly spun too.
Woollen and worsted spinning are two ends of a beautifully broad spectrum. One yields lightness and loft, the other smoothness and strength. Between them, semi-woollen and semi-worsted approaches offer even more nuance.
Understanding these systems brings you closer to the yarn you use, the sheep it came from, and the hands and machines that shaped it.